Bulnes: Excursion with funicular and Cabrales cheese cave in the Picos de Europa

Mountain villages still feel wonderfully remote here. This full-day excursion from Asturias combines the Cares Gorge, the underground funicular to Bulnes, and a visit to a Cabrales cheese cave. I especially like the contrast between the dramatic mountain scenery and the quiet village streets, followed by a tasting of strong Cabrales cheese with Asturian cider.

The tour is also good value at $81 per person, since it includes private bus transfers, the return funicular ticket, guided visits, and the cheese tasting. The main drawback is the long day on the road, with about three hours of bus travel each way from some starting points. English commentary can also be brief during parts of the day, so this works best if scenery and local food matter more to you than nonstop guiding.

Key points to know before booking

• The eight-minute Bulnes funicular runs underground, so this is a practical mountain railway, not a scenic cable car ride.
• Poncebos gives you a taste of the Cares Gorge, with views of the river and the steep rock walls near the start of the famous route.
• Bulnes has no road access and no cell phone coverage, adding to its quiet, cut-off feel.
• The village viewpoint looks toward Picu Urriellu, also called Naranjo de Bulnes, one of Spain’s best-known climbing peaks.
• Cabrales cheese is served with Asturian cider, a simple pairing that brings the food traditions of the region together.
• Lunch is not included, but access to Bulnes is timed to allow you to eat there.

The long ride toward Poncebos

The day begins at one of four pickup points: the bus station in Cangas de Onís, Calle Uría 58 in Oviedo, Panadería Manín, or Buendía Store. Your exact meeting point depends on the option you book, so check it carefully before setting out.

The bus ride can take about three hours. That sounds heavy for a day trip, but the route toward the Picos de Europa supplies much of the reward. You follow the Cares River through mountain country, passing rural villages and increasingly steep slopes.

I would treat the ride as part of the sightseeing rather than as dead time. The scenery changes as the road reaches Poncebos, where the mountains tighten around the river and the rock walls become the main event. Still, if you dislike long coach journeys, this is the first issue to weigh.

The private bus transfers are useful because the day includes several separate stops. You do not need to arrange transport between Poncebos, Bulnes, and Arenas de Cabrales, and the return trip is already handled. That convenience matters in a remote mountain area.

Poncebos and the Cares Gorge

Poncebos is the gateway to the Cares Route, one of the best-known walks in the Picos de Europa. The route is often called La Garganta Divina, or the Divine Gorge, because the Cares River has cut a dramatic canyon through the mountains.

This excursion does not present itself as a full hike along the Cares Route. Instead, you stop to appreciate the gorge, river, and rock walls near Poncebos. You can expect a short visit rather than a full walking day, which suits the wider schedule.

I like this part because it gives you the setting before you reach Bulnes. The gorge explains why the old villages in this area feel so isolated. The mountains are not simply a backdrop. They shaped how people moved, worked, and built their homes.

Bring shoes with a firm sole. The tour already recommends comfortable footwear, and even a short stop in mountain terrain is more pleasant when you are not dealing with slippery or flimsy shoes. Weather can change quickly in the Picos de Europa, so bring clothing suited to the conditions rather than relying on a warm forecast from the coast.

Riding the underground funicular to Bulnes

From Poncebos, you head to the lower station of the Bulnes funicular. The ride takes about eight minutes and passes through the mountain completely underground.

Do not expect open views during the journey. The funicular is more like a small train pulled along a track through a tunnel than an aerial cable car. One visitor specifically found this surprising, so it is worth setting expectations clearly: the funicular is memorable because of the engineering and the access it provides, not because of the scenery from the carriage.

The ticket is included in the tour price and is valued at $26.99. That makes a noticeable difference to the overall value. Buying transport separately would also leave you coordinating the bus, funicular, and return timing on your own.

There can be a wait of around 30 minutes around the funicular portion of the day. Use that time to get your bearings, take in the mountain walls, or prepare for the walk through Bulnes. The schedule includes a return train later, so you are not being asked to find your own way down.

A quiet hour in Bulnes

Bulnes is the heart of the excursion. It is a small mountain village with cobbled streets, traditional houses, and an unusually peaceful feel. Since the village cannot be reached by road, the funicular gives it a sense of separation that is hard to find in more accessible mountain towns.

The absence of cell phone coverage is part of the experience. You can see it as a minor inconvenience, especially if you need to contact someone, but I think it also helps the village feel less hurried. This is a place for looking around slowly rather than constantly checking a screen.

The tour includes a guided visit and free time. You may visit the chapel of Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, then walk toward the viewpoint for a look at Picu Urriellu, known locally as Naranjo de Bulnes. The peak is an important symbol for Spanish mountaineers, and its presence gives the village a clear sense of place.

The walk through Bulnes is not just about taking photographs. Traditional houses and narrow streets show how a settlement adapted to a steep mountain setting. You get a short look at village life in an area where roads, large shops, and modern services are limited.

The itinerary allows about an hour for walking and free time, though the full timing can vary. Lunch is not included, but access is guaranteed, so you have a chance to eat in Bulnes rather than rush through the village. Bring money for food and drinks, and do not count on the tour price covering anything beyond the listed tasting.

Some people will find the natural surroundings more impressive than the buildings. That is a fair response. Bulnes is small, and the visit is not a long museum-style attraction. Its appeal comes from the combination of isolation, mountain views, and a traditional village that you reach by an unusual route.

Cabrales cheese in Arenas

After Bulnes, the group returns by funicular and continues by bus toward Arenas de Cabrales. The ride takes roughly 30 minutes before the cheese visit.

Cabrales is one of Asturias’ most famous foods. At the cheese cave, you learn how the cheese is made using traditional methods passed down through generations. The visit explains the craft behind the product rather than treating the tasting as a quick snack.

The cave portion is relatively short, listed at about 10 minutes, followed by a longer visit and tasting in Las Arenas. If you want a long production tour, this may feel brief. If you want a clear introduction to the cheese and its place in Asturian food culture, the format works well.

The language arrangement is worth noting. The tour is offered in English and Spanish, but some parts of the cheese visit may be presented mainly in Spanish. English speakers may receive an iPad with translated text. One useful tip is to keep the device ready and read at your own pace, since fast spoken Spanish can make it difficult to follow every detail while reading along.

This is also where the tour’s guiding quality can make a real difference. Santiago received especially warm praise for clear communication and for making the day interesting. Other feedback also points to good planning and strong English translation overall, but the language balance may not be perfectly even at every stop.

Tasting Cabrales with Asturian cider

The final tasting pairs Cabrales cheese with Asturian cider. Cabrales has a bold, pungent flavor, so this is not a shy cheese tasting. The cider gives the experience a distinctly local finish and helps connect the food to the region rather than presenting the cheese as an isolated product.

I like this ending because it is direct and useful. You learn about the cheese, then taste it in the same general area where the tradition belongs. The experience does not stop at scenery and transport. It gives you something specific to remember from Asturias.

Additional food and drinks are not included, so the tasting should not be confused with a full meal. Plan to eat lunch in Bulnes or elsewhere according to the schedule. The tour provides access for lunch, but you pay for that meal yourself.

Is $81 a fair price?

For an eight to twelve hour outing, $81 is a reasonable price if you value convenience. The cost covers private bus transportation, the return funicular ticket, a guided visit to Bulnes, access for lunch, the cheese cave visit, and the Cabrales and cider tasting.

The funicular ticket alone is listed at $26.99. Add the long-distance transport and the need to coordinate several remote stops, and the package offers solid value. You are paying for a full day that would be awkward to reproduce independently without a car and careful timing.

The value is less convincing if you want a long mountain hike or a slow food tour. The day gives you a sample of several highlights rather than deep time at one place. Poncebos is a scenic stop, Bulnes receives about an hour of focused exploration, and the cheese cave visit is fairly compact.

I would choose this tour for a first visit to the area, especially if you want to see Bulnes without hiking to it. I would look elsewhere if your priority is completing the Cares Route on foot, spending a full day photographing mountain scenery, or having a long, detailed cheese-making demonstration.

Who will enjoy this day most?

This excursion suits you if you want a mix of scenery, village life, transport history, and local food. It is especially useful for people staying in Oviedo or Cangas de Onís who do not have a car or do not want to handle the mountain roads themselves.

It also works well for visitors who prefer a guided structure. The bus, funicular, village visit, and cheese tasting are arranged as one day, with English and Spanish guiding available. The schedule is busy, but you always know the next part of the day.

You should think twice if you have mobility limitations. The activity is not suitable for wheelchair users or people with mobility impairments, and it includes walking through a mountain village. Comfortable shoes and weather-appropriate clothing are essential.

The tour may also suit families with older children, food-focused visitors, and anyone curious about rural Asturias. The funicular gives the day an unusual hook, while the cheese and cider provide a strong local flavor.

Practical timing and language advice

The total duration can range from eight to twelve hours, depending on the starting point and the day’s schedule. Oviedo departures are likely to involve the longest overall day, while Cangas de Onís is closer to the Picos de Europa.

Pack light, but include a rain layer or warm layer. The mountain setting around Poncebos and Bulnes can feel very different from town. Comfortable shoes will help on cobbled streets and uneven ground.

If you need reliable phone service, make arrangements before reaching Bulnes. There is no cell phone coverage in the village. Also, keep some flexibility in your expectations: mountain transport and group timing can make the day feel less exact than an urban walking tour.

The tour offers free cancellation up to 24 hours before departure and lets you reserve now and pay later. Those terms are helpful when weather or plans in northern Spain are still unsettled.

Should you book the Bulnes excursion?

Book it if you want an easy way to combine the Picos de Europa, an isolated village, and Cabrales cheese in one demanding but rewarding day. The included funicular ticket and private transfers make the $81 price attractive, and the cider tasting gives the outing a proper Asturian finish.

Skip it if you want a serious hike, a long stay in Bulnes, or an entirely English-language explanation at every stop. The bus ride is long, the funicular has no views, and parts of the cheese visit may rely on translated tablet material.

For most first-time visitors without a car, I would consider this a strong introduction to the area. Go for the gorge, the quiet village, the view toward Picu Urriellu, and the chance to taste Cabrales where the tradition belongs. Just pack good shoes, allow for a full day, and save room for lunch.

FAQ

Where does the excursion start?

There are four possible starting locations: Estación de Autobuses de Cangas de Onís, Calle Uría 58 in Oviedo, Panadería Manín, and Buendía Store. The exact meeting point depends on the option booked.

How long does the excursion last?

The excursion lasts between eight and twelve hours. Check the available starting times for the date you want.

Is the Bulnes funicular included?

Yes. The excursion includes the return ticket for the Bulnes funicular, valued at $26.99.

Is lunch included?

No. Lunch and additional food or drinks are not included. The schedule does provide guaranteed access to Bulnes for lunch.

What languages are available?

Live guiding is available in English and Spanish. Some content may be presented in its original language, and translated material may be provided during parts of the cheese visit.

Is the tour suitable for wheelchair users?

No. The activity is not suitable for wheelchair users or people with mobility impairments.

What should I bring?

Bring comfortable shoes and clothing suitable for the weather. Bulnes has no cell phone coverage, so plan ahead if you need to contact someone during the visit.